Q & A

Chris Marshall: If that rifle has sentimental value, I'd find a gunsmith and forego the DIY repair effort. Sometimes experience should prevail to get something done right, and this could well be one of those times. I think that's especially true if you want to use this firearm again. Once the stock is mended and back to working condition, you'll probably never look back and regret the cost of getting it done by a pro.


Tim Inman: Epoxy is the only good answer for you. You can find specialty epoxies made for just your kind of troubles available from gunsmith suppliers. They are not "ordinary" epoxies, and they are quite expensive.

That said, whatever glue you use, it will only stick or bond to the surface it touches So, to get a perfect bond, you'll need a perfect surface. Opening and cleaning those joints is a must. Having your repair end up being both invisible and strong means you'll have to have clean joints and use great skill as a craftsperson. This might be a job for a professional, unless you've had previous experience. If you do decide to have a go at it, practice on scrap pieces first.

Tim Inman: The times they are a-changin'.... Back when your saw was made, any effort to control dust in a carpenter shop would have been scoffed at. Dust was just part of a cabinetmaker's life. Today, we have fancy setups in our shops to collect dust and deal with the waste. There is a raging battle about being able to sell/use saws that don't have micro-brakes to keep us from cutting off fingers -- even if we're just dumb enough to stick a finger into the blade. I wear hearing protection regularly. My father ridiculed the idea just a few years ago. So -- retrofitting an old (but good) saw to comply with today's workplace standards and practices is what you're up against. Or, just learn to live with it and get a broom ...

Chris Marshall: I'd add to Tim's suggestion: wear a dust respirator, too, if the dust bothers you. Even if you don't see it, that super-fine dust is hanging in the air and waiting to get inhaled. More and more evidence is suggesting we should wear respirators around wood dust, regardless of the woodworking activity. I finally got in the habit of wearing a respirator when sanding a number of years ago, and now it just feels wrong not to wear it. Sure beats the alternative of coughing and sneezing.

Tim Inman: It isn't the brand that makes the difference. Yes, different artisans prefer different brands, but that is only a fraction of the overall end product. There are so many variables, including your eyes and your "mind's eye" vision for what you want to achieve. The only good way to know what you will get with whatever product(s) you chose to use is to TEST, TEST, TEST. Make up some sample boards using the same soft maple wood from which you are making your bed. Scraps? No, SAMPLES. An oldie but goodie reference source would be George Frank's books. He was the master at using chemicals and dyes to color wood fibers. You have to wade through his stories to get to the meat of his teachings, but he knew what he was talking about (and the stories are fun, too). I serve on the advisory committee for the Dakota Technical College Wood Finishing Program. That's where I met George Frank many years ago. He adopted the program as his own, and he spent many hours there working with the students. He was the genuine article -- and truly the character he portrayed himself to be in his books.

Generally, water-based dyes are more lightfast and deeper penetrating than the others -- generally. Alcohol and NGR (Non Grain Raising) dyes are easier to use because they don't raise the wood grain when applied. Although I feel this is a very much overrated problem, it is a fact. I prefer water-based products whenever I have an option. Some of the newer metalized dyes can be equally lightfast, whether mixed in an alcohol or water solution. Of course, always follow the manufacturer's instructions on the label!

For the very best looks, I find that a light tint with dye products (a little dye and a lot of liquid) followed by conventional oil-based wiping stains yields the goods. Seal lightly between each step with a 'wash' of sealer or shellac. (My washes are usually something like 10 percent sealer/shellac and 90 percent appropriate solvent.) Dry, then scuff-sand lightly with a sanding sponge before continuing with each next step. Keep records of what you've done!

One last note: Soft maple tends to be "blotchy" when stained or tinted conventionally. It is a spongy wood. To equalize the light/dark areas, sometimes it is a good idea to apply a light wash of shellac or sealer to the sanded bare wood before applying any staining materials. Scuff sand for smoothness and go for it. Again, test before you try it on your final project.

Your seemingly easy question turns the key to unlock a lifetime's experience and work. Perfect is the enemy of good, remember. Practice, practice, practice. I cover many staining and coloring techniques -- and answer questions like yours -- in my book, The Art of Classical Furniture Finishing. It is available through Amazon or from www.historicinteriors.com in both paper and ebook formats.